TWO weeks ago I had an e-mail from the council headed "new cabinet positions". My excitement did not mount. I expected "new" to mean same-old, same-old but in a different order, so was unsurprised to discover it wasn't always even that, (see planning. God-help-us).

I have come to view, however, Roger Latchford's move to "regeneration" as a sign of hope. Roger at least communicates – when Bob Bayford did it, he couldn't return a phone call – and may take action.

In my opinion (not always appreciated by our illustrious representatives), this should include doing something, fast, about all the empty shops, and, as importantly, knocking on the doors of those enterprises that have the potential to change the face of Thanet and saying thank you. For real innovation, that could be followed by: "How can we support you?" For, while some of our newer jewels are doing very well indeed all on their own – the excellent Eddie Gilbert's restaurant in Ramsgate springs to mind – others could do with a heads-up. Like perhaps, the Indian Princess. I was invited there by our local Blogging King, Eastcliff Richard, or Dick as I like to call him, who told me the IP may have been through troubled times, but it was still alive and kicking and deserved a visit. All well and good until Dick, unreliable bounder that he is, pulled out and sent one of his dodgy mates instead (we shall refer to him as Dick 2. Think: by name, by nature) turning the evening into a bizarre blend of Come Dine With Me and Blind Date.

For the Indian Princess is not your average curry house. As Dev Biswal, the Michelin- trained, go-getting owner-chef, explained, he is offering fine dining that is about flavour and aesthetics; it is, as he puts it: "Art on a plate". Whole tables sometimes walk out when they discover that chicken tikka masala and chips is not an option. We had his tasting menu.

My friend Marina-the-food-critic would make reference to 'an innovative and intriguing collision of subtle but vibrant Indian spicing with uber-contemporary flourishes and the cream of local ingredients' but all I can say is: "Very nice it was, too."

The only thing I blanched at was the calves' liver and I even thought about eating that. But, in the end, it was just too – livery. I don't do funny animal parts. I did, however, devour the pickled swede relish that came with it. Other goodies included potato dumpling with apricot, a trio of rabbit roulade, pâté, and brochette (D2 got confused between the latter and a brioche but luckily I was able to put him right) and a delicious pear raitha (which he put his sleeve in).

We enjoyed a rare moment of agreement over caviar in general being overrated, but alongside herring roe, a sexy little fish cake, melon compôte and the most exquisite king prawn with garlic mash, it went down a treat.

At some point, a little cup of tomato and dhal soup pitched up with an onion bhaji-type fritter and then it was duck on spinach with aubergine. At which juncture, D2 felt compelled to share with me the effects this vegetable has on his large intestine. Moving rapidly on (no pun intended) we were presented with, what D2 loftily told me, was Dev's signature dish – Nile perch on a bed of green beans with another raitha – and then along came an orange and rose sorbet with popping bits, allowing D2 to get all pretentious about cleansing his palate while I sorted mine with another glass of wine (English, would you believe – a 2007 Biddenden Ortega – but surprisingly drinkable).

Dessert was rose crème brulée served in a goose egg. Dick 2 was now discussing cross-dressing but mercifully we were joined by Dev, who told us his client mailing list includes diners from Canterbury, Whitstable, Ashford and Surrey but only five per cent are from Thanet.

This strikes me as a shame. The whole area benefits from decent, unusual restaurants and building them up doesn't come cheap in terms of either effort or finance – when Dev told me what his business rates were, I nearly fell off my chair, and that was before the second brandy.

So do give the Indian Princess a try next time you're after something special. I shall go again (though perhaps not with Dick 2) and so, I hope, might members of the new cabinet...

The Indian Princess is at 44 King Street, Margate, CT9 1QE. Phone 01843 231504 or visit www. theindianprincess.co.uk for online reservations.